We
were back on Matilda in mid January after our great month in Australia. The
weather was cold, rainy and generally miserable. We didn’t mind too much, it
was winter after all. We had wood for our little fire and the boat
was quite comfortable. There were plenty of things to do before the start of
the cruising season and we enjoyed planning. We wanted to get out and explore
some places that we would not see on the canals. Firstly though, we were going
to the snow to ski for a week.
We
have booked again at La Bresse-Hohneck in the Haute Vosges in the east of
France for a week and as we were there last year we knew that public transport
there and back was easy. But No! We got to the tram stop, loaded with skis and
bags to find that all the trams were delayed and we were going to be arriving at the
station with no time to spare. We had our tickets so straight on to the
platform and – no train. The system said it had not left so there was a
quandary.
No.
1 platform at Nancy is long. It can take
a passenger train 20 coaches long. Sure enough they were loading our little
three coach train at the far end. They held it for us and we got away just on
time.
After
the train and bus trip we arrived in Hohneck around midday but the scene was
not good. No snow. Only enough made by the snow makers to keep one piste and a
beginner’s area open.
Peter
was not pleased.
However,
midweek the weather changed and there was a good dump and we had a couple of
days of excellent conditions.
Come Saturday and the place was bedlam as everyone including busloads of tourists were
eager to get onto the slopes.
We
were happy with our week and returned to Matilda that afternoon.
Strasbourg is a city
we needed to visit.
We
wanted to see for ourselves what the facilities and moorings were like before
we committed to coming and staying here with Matilda. Strangely, with all the water around there was nothing suitable for us. We also wanted to have a good look at
the town so we planned a weekend away. Around an hour in
a train from Nancy, Strasbourg is on the Rhine River which forms the
north-eastern border of France with Germany. The cathedral was built over a
period from the 11th to the 15th century. Built with a
pink sandstone it is ornately sculpted. The spire at over 140 metres high was
completed in 1439 and remained the highest building in Christendom until the
end of the 19th century. It completely dominates the the old town.
The
river Ill runs through the town to the Rhine and in the middle ages became the
site of many mills and tanneries. The building in the centre, now known as
Tanner’s House has been here since the 16th century. This area is called Petite France.
Strasbourg
has become the capital of the European Union and the European District is the
area that houses the Council of Europe representing the 47 member states, the
European court of Human Rights and the European Parliament. These buildings are
all modern and architecturally daring.
Being
the centre for the European political and civil rights, scenes
such as these are not uncommon in this district.
The
Rhine River is the border with Germany here and this concrete and steel pillbox
remains from a string of Marginot Line observation posts built prior to the
second world war.
We
walked across the bridge on the left and wandered around the town of Kehl on
Sunday afternoon. We noticed a great number of tobacconists in the main street
– all promoting cheap cigarettes. The only shops open. It looks as though they try to attract the
French smokers from across the river.
These
suburban houses seemed to be more well cared for than those in France.
We
returned across this fascinating suspension passerelle.
It has a divided walkway and a system of counterbalances that someday some
engineer will explain to us how they work.
We
caught the bus back to our hotel and collected our luggage. The train once
again was on time and we were back on board Matilda in time for dinner.
Metz Another town
close to Nancy.
Another
cathedral, nowhere as grand as Strasbourg but it boasts some wonderful stained
glass windows. These two modern windows below were designed by Marc Chagall.
Metz
has a rich 3,000-year-history, having variously been a Celtic oppidum, an
important Gallo-Roman city, the Merovingian capital of the Austrasia kingdom,
the birthplace of the Carolingian dynasty, a cradle of the Gregorian chant, and
one of the oldest republics of the common era in Europe. The city has been
steeped in various cultures, but has had strong Germanic influences due to its location and history.
Because
of its historical, cultural, and architectural background, Metz has been
submitted on the France's UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List. The city
features noteworthy buildings such as the Cathedral, the Basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains,
its Imperial Station Palace, and its Opera House, the oldest one working in
France. Metz is home to some world-class venues including the Arsenal Concert
Hall and the Centre Pompidou-Metz museum.
Enough
of the history lesson, we were only here for a day so we wandered around
admiring some of the structures that history has left behind.
This
bridge and guardhouse from the 15th century is being restored. It
was included as part of fortifications set up by our often quoted engineer, Sebastien
Le Prestre de Vauban in the 17th century.
This
dramatic building is the Centre Pompidou – Metz museum. Its wonderful free form structure and overhanging verandas uses a timber frame to support a modern plastic
fabric roof.
Metz
railway station is a very imposing building, locally called The Station Palace.
Designed by a German architect, Jurgen Kroger and built between 1905 and 1908 it
includes apartments proposed for Kaiser William II. Its grandeur extends to
stained glass windows, a grand restaurant (now a book shop) and a façade and
interior completely decorated with carved figures.
Back
to Nancy and are now enjoying warmer weather and clear skies. We have chores to
do on Matilda as the cruising season starts soon. It won’t be long before Jane
and John join us as we wander the French canals again.
There
will be plenty to tell, so, we will keep in touch.
