As
we have mentioned on past pages, we have spent some time in Dole and have grown
to appreciate the town very much. Like most French country towns it has had a
chequered history. Dole began as a small settlement on a hill overlooking the
Doubs river where in the 12th century a fortress was built by the
Emperor Frederic Barberousse. It was on a road built by the Romans about a day’s
travel out of Besancon and became quite important during the rule of the
Burgundians and the Hapsburgs as the capital of Franche-Compte. Even our
favourite military engineer Sebastien Le Prestre de Vauban had some input into
the fortifications of the town – he knocked most of them down as he
concentrated the military at Besancon. The seat of government was moved
Besancon too.
Today,
with a population of about 25,000 it is big enough to be active yet still has a
well-kept historic heart. The old waterway here fed the tanneries and mills at
the base of the hill.
Louis
Pasteur was born in Dole and lived in this house above the tannery where his
father worked.
Peter
was fascinated by this building in one of the older streets. It was
built as a warehouse or shop on the ground floor and basement with a separate
entrance to living quarters or offices via
a spiral staircase on the right. The entrance from the street had a guardhouse over it that had a perfect view of who was at the front door.
The
building was quite old but so well made that its condition was remarkably good.
The
basement, with its beautiful vaulted ceiling, most likely a warehouse in its earlier life is now a very pleasant
restaurant.
When
you look closely at these old buildings, the standard of detail in most is
extremely high but tends to go unnoticed.
On the other hand the works of a modern sculptor adding his touches to the local civic gardens needs no response.
The
summer equinox has a special place in French culture. It is always an event
celebrated in the afternoon and evening with music and song. On the evening of
21st June we joined other Dole inhabitants in their festivities in
the city.
During
the events leading up to this evening, our favourite street café had a jazz
quartet entertaining their customers with some excellent music. We were surprised
by two things
Firstly
this lively couple who had spent the afternoon informing the citizens of Dole
of their forthcoming wedding, and
this
shiny-haired young lad who could not sit still while the quartet were playing
their music. His perception of their beat and rhythms kept his fingers, hands
and feet moving in time. He has positive musical talent and we hope he is able
to develop it.
We
met his family and he, Octave, his elder brother, Constant, younger brother, Anatole, and mother Mathilde became regular visitors to us on Matilda. Octave
was fascinated by the boat and us and had his mother bring him past at every
opportunity.
When
we finally left Dole, Octave and Constant came on board and travelled with us for
a few kilometres through two locks to Choisey. Constant is learning English
at school and had developed a little understanding. Mathilde followed us with her car and picked them
up. They enjoyed the experience.
The
boys were great, in fact a lovely family group. We found it very nice to be
able to be accepted by them and appreciated their friendship. We will try to keep in touch.
Now
we are off to St Jean de Losne, we have an appointment with the wonderful
Catherine of Canvas Cover fame. Matilda needs a little more trim. Also another
little problem has reared its ugly head, the main engine alternator is not
working, so we will need to look at that too.
Obviously
there will be more to tell so we will keep in touch.
