We
are no strangers to Auxonne. We often visited the town during our first winter spent on Matilda in St
Symphorien and it has been a welcome port on other occasions. It is where Napoleon Bonaparte attended military school in his younger
years and the town still has a military presence. It is one of Vauban’s
fortifications and still has many historic buildings from that time.
We
were here to meet Marg’s sister and brother, Helen and Peter.
They
arrived by train from Paris on Tuesday 2nd September and we struggled
back to Matilda with their cases. They would be with us for quite some time.
On Wednesday
we set off. We were
travelling up the Saone to Corre then the Vosges Canal to Neuves-Maisons then
the Moselle to Frouard and the canal de la Marne au Rhin to Nancy.
We
called into Gray and admired some of the historic buildings in this town.
The
old hospital with its central circular chapel and modern (19th century)
front wing has always drawn us.
The
climb to the Marie’s office
with its classic Burgundian roof was well worth the effort.
Mornings
on the river were often cool and misty. Quiet and somehow romantic.
The
hotel barges often cruise this part of the river and here, we had to wait for Jeanine to leave a lock.
We
were now in the Haute Saone and small villages such as the one above dotted the
country. Grand buildings and fortifications everywhere. We stopped for the
evening and walked around one such town. Scey sur Saone was about a kilometre
walk from our mooring and there we found a variety of buildings.
Grand
houses -
and
this wonderful old building with some extensive detail sculpturing. Unfortunately it is showing the ravages of time. We also found the most amazing junk
shop that had about six rooms (that we saw) full of wonderful treasure!!
Fortunately we didn’t buy anything.
That
evening we returned to the port and had a wonderful meal at this restaurant.
Alfresco on a balmy evening.
We
were soon on the Canal de l’Est – southern branch, known as the canal des
Vosges. This is a canal 121 kilometres long that connects the Saone River at
Corre to the Moselle river at Neuve-Masons. Originally part of the main
North/South freight route it connected the Med with France’s industrial areas
in the north. It climbs over the Vosges hills and reaches a height of 360
metres above sea level, the second highest canal in France. The valley that it
follows from Corre to the summit had many industries in it including textiles,
mining and iron works. It has been exploited since roman times. They had
thermal baths at Bains-les-Bains, a village in the valley. There is currently a
modern facility there where one can “take to the waters”
We
stayed the night at Fontenoy-le-Chateau and in our wanderings came to the local
church. This photo from inside shows some wonderful windows as well as some
graffiti on a pew, engraved in a style long gone. (the wood borer have been
active too)
We
stopped at Nomexy for lunch and took a stroll into the ancient town of Chatel sur Moselle. There are ruins here of an
ancient castle and stronghold. We had been before but Helen needed to see it
all. Unfortunately the site was not open and we had to continue on. Helen
was intrigued with this mosaic in the town square.
The
excavation and restoration of the old castle continues and is well worth
a visit.
We
arrived at the end of the canal des Vosges and entered the port of Neuves
Maisons, a major French industrial town. A large steel mill at the port takes
barge loads of scrap steel to re-convert to usable product. There were four of
these barges in port as we went through.
Once
again, we were in Big Ship country the locks were dramatically large.
Not
much later we were in Nancy – relaxing.
Our
trip from Auxonne has not been rushed but has taken us 14 days. We travelled about 303 kilometres and passed through 121 locks, 54 in three days. We are due for a
break.
A
few days to relax and we are off on another adventure. We are going to Russia.
There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.
