Monday, June 23, 2014

Meaux to Paris



We have visited Meaux (pronounced Mo) on a number of occasions. It is only 40 minutes out of Paris on the urban rail network and a commuter bus ride from Charles de Gaulle airport. It is a large and historically important town in its own right. There is plenty to see here and as we were being visited by some friends we chose to stay here for a few days. 

When we were back in Australia for the Christmas period last year, we stayed with Elizabeth and Paul at their property at Horsham, Victoria. We celebrated New Year’s Eve at a neighbouring farm and met a great group of their friends. One couple, Mary and Ken planned a European holiday and luckily, were able to visit us while they were in Paris. They were keen to see how we live.



We met them at the railway station, wandered through town then returned to Matilda for quite a long lunch. At a still respectable hour, we took them back to the train for Paris. It was good to see them again after the celebrations of New Year.



On the northern outskirts of Meaux, this statue is part of a memorial to the first war. Financed mainly by America, it is quite new and very innovative in its presentation of the history of the conflict. It is also a little biased towards the American involvement. In a dramatic building there is a great collection of memorabilia, including aircraft, tanks and other weapons. There are also tributes to the efforts played by others in the conflict.



This French truck was especially designed to carry pigeons to various parts of the battlegrounds to be used to carry messages back to headquarters.  





These two planes appeared to be authentic – even down to the tell-tale oil dribble from the bi-plane.





Displays of mannequins in the various uniforms of the major forces including the cavalry horses made a dramatic display.

Although the United States had been supplying aid to the allied powers since the beginning of the conflict, they only entered the war in April 1916. Because of their previous policies of neutrality, they were naive with little knowledge of warfare of the day. Against a very seasoned enemy, their losses were high. They mobilised over 4,000,000 personnel of which 100,000 died. By comparison, Australia, mobilised 330,000 soldiers (13% of the white male population) with 62,000 deaths in battle.

We struggled to find any mention of the Australian efforts in Europe but we did find an Australian slouch hat complete with emu plume. Attached was a small notation to say that the Australian forces were evident in the conflict by their lack of respect of authority. They didn’t mention that this “lack of respect of authority” on the part of the Australians turned the war. In April 1918, the head of the Australian forces at Villers-Bretonneux  “mis-read” an order to attack the Germans in broad daylight and attacked the night before, catching them un-aware and thus starting the allied push that did not stop until the armistice in November.

Enough of the history lesson.

We had more visitors meeting us in Meaux. Sue and Alan, friends of Chris and Margo who had spent time with us last year were joining us for a week. We met them at the train and spent the next week wandering down the Marne River towards Paris.  





Again we were on the big rivers and the associated traffic.  This gravel barge was on the Seine as we made our way to Quai d’Austerlitz.

We dropped Sue and Alan at Austerlitz station and Marg went with them to check all was OK with the train. They were off to Montlucon to continue their European experience.

We are again by ourselves and the plan is now to wander south-ish through France to Digoin and Roanne then to Chalon-sur-Saone and the Saone River. From there – who knows!

There will be more to tell so we will keep in touch.

Saturday, June 14, 2014

More Champagne



May the 1st was a National Holiday in France. It was the day Jane and John were joining us in Chalons en Champagne. They were on an extended holiday and we were the quiet interlude between Italy, Paris and Edinburgh.

We were on our favourite canal and they were going to be with us while we wandered through the Champagne country yet again! They arrived by train and in no time we were on Matilda sharing a welcoming glass of bubbles before one of Marg’s lunches.



Next day we were off down the Champagne Trail but not before John and Peter cycled to the local Pecheur’s Supermarket. John is a very keen fisherman and as he was on the water, he just needed to get some gear.



For John, a rod in one hand and a glass of single malt Cardhu in the other was as good as it gets.

Jane had other tastes and we agreed that along the canal, there were a number of Champagne houses we would visit.





We had originally planned to visit Reims on the Canal de l’Aisne a la Marne but there was an unexpected closure of a connecting canal and we decided to go via Epernay instead. Again, we visited the cellars of Mercier who was such an entrepreneur in the champagne industry.



The tour through their cellars is almost a show in itself. An automated train wanders around amongst the kilometres of tunnels in the chalk below the town where millions of bottles of champagne are stored.









The famous wooden barrel still fascinates all who read the story.







Back on board and another delightful meal. This one included snails prepared in the traditional french way. They were eaten with concentrated effort!

We were now travelling down the Marne River and some of the towns beside the river had wonderful examples of late 19th century french architecture






All too soon we were in Meaux and almost time for our visitors to leave. We had a day together in the town and saw areas that we had not seen before.



This old building is attached to the Meaux Cathedral and had been the priory for many centuries.

The next day we put John and Jane on a bus that took them to CDG airport to continue their trip to Scotland.

Oh! And John’s fishing? He caught an eel which Marg cooked as part of another good meal. We all enjoyed it.

We have some more visitors meeting us in Meaux so there will be more to tell.