Midsummer madness

June 21^st is a special day in France. It is the summer solstice which since ancient times has had a special place in the lives of all French people. The pagan rites of the past have given way in these modern times to a day and night devoted to festive music and dance.

Last year we were in Dole and the whole town was filled with various groups singing and dancing through to dawn. This year we are on the canal lateral to the Loire at a small village, Cours-les-Barres. The locals made us very welcome at the town quay with free mooring for about eight boats. The only festivities were canalside and finished at 11pm.

The young musicians above are playing local folk instruments while people performed jigs and other traditional dances on a temporary dance floor.

The local ladies provided a pleasant variety of food and drinks.

We continued on and just after Cuffy, the canal crosses the Allier River. We are lifted over 9 metres in a lock that opens to the  pont canal du Guetin. At an  impressive 235 metres long , this beautiful stone water bridge sits on 11 pylons across the river.

Next day we decided to call in to Nevers. The town is reached via a branch canal that in the past allowed river boats access to the canal but today the river locks have been dismantled and there is a swimming pool complex in their place. Built probably 30 years ago, this complex is already past its “use-by” date and is currently derelict. But the 8 metre high 100 year old lock gates on to the river still keep flood waters out of parts of the town.

Like many old European towns, Nevers has a very long history.  The gate house to the left was the 14^th century replacement for the one below which is purported to be from the 10^th. 

      








The history of the town can be traced through the pottery it is famous for. From Italian origins, this heavily patterned china depicts scenes from the ancient régimes, to the Revolution in miniatures and on plates and ornaments. The Montagnon factory, Du Bout du Monde, founded in 1648, still carries on the traditions of generations. Unfortunately we were unwilling to take photos in their showrooms.

Here, the Loire is crossed  by this beautiful old stone Bridge. There are the remains of at least three other older bridges in the vicinity. 

 

Nevers cathedral has a long and remarkable history. It has had a series of church buildings on the site since the 5^th century. They have been pillaged, burnt down, replaced and collapsed since then. The present structure has parts constructed in the 11^th century and the last devastation was some accidental direct hits in a bombing raid by the allies in 1944. They were aiming for the railway yards. All the windows were blown out and in our opinion, their modern replacements do not do the historic building justice.  

We had planned to visit Roanne this trip so after travelling down the canal de Roanne a Digion for two days we entered Roanne harbour. We have met many boaters who frequent the town, specifically as a winter mooring so we thought we had better check it out.

In the past, a very busy port, this is the upstream end of the canals lateral to the Loire river. It is now a very spacious port for pleasure craft. We were surprised to see the Australian flag flying on the first pole on entering the port.

We spent some time here, Peter had some new glasses made, we refueled Matilda from a tanker, (1028 litres so we will be will be right for the rest of the season), we explored the area and spent some time with old and new friends met here.

We were here for Robert’s birthday and the town entertained everyone with a great fireworks display.

By the way, the French call his birthday, Quatorzieme de Juillet (Bastille Day!)

Another thing the French are known for is their skills in tromp l’oeil and Roanne has some brilliant examples of the art.

This scene is almost too big to photograph. See if you can find the real doorway.

No prizes, there is not one in the scene.

A little further away is this square. There is a doorway in this one. And the odd real window.

We left Roanne on July 22^nd to wander down the Canal du Centre and on to the Saone River.

There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.