Sunday, August 31, 2014

The Charolais Canal



Our first port of call on the Canal du Centre was Paray le Monial. The town has been a religious centre for many years, in 973AD a Benedictine priory was established here that became the home of the Cluny monks until 1789. It is still a major centre and there are always gatherings of church groups in a “tent city” adjacent to the town.



We found the town interesting – apart from its religious connections. This old tower – part of a church in the past is used as an art gallery and houses various exhibitions. This time we saw a display of modern mosaics in black and white.







Even to this rendition of the periodic table.



Way out of place, we found this english phone box. We should have checked if calls to London were charged as local.



Our next stop was Montceau-les-Mines. In its time the port was one of the busiest ports on the French canal system. Coal was the primary reason with over 2.7 million tons leaving the town during the first World War.




Today the port is a very comfortable stop over on our trip even though at least half of its area is now a car park.



A few days later we crested the hill that the canal goes over and the view above opened before us. This view is from the first ecluse downhill, on the way to the Saone.



At the small village of Saint-Leger-sur-Dheune we met two of the hotel barges that we have got to know well. Hirondelle in front of us and Adrienne behind. We have seen these boats in many places and are on talking terms with their crews. We are moored here in their reserved area – with their permission and using their power and facilities. We stopped here for a few days and took the opportunity to do some little jobs on Matilda and generally chill out.




Marg found a jigsaw and spent many relaxing hours getting it together.





We were in Burgundy now, Pinot Noir country and the vineyards were appearing everywhere. We wandered into Santenay looking for something for lunch and although the town looked prosperous and pretty, we found it un-welcoming. So we were off to Chagny, two hours away. We planned to stay there for a few days.

We were visited by a young man who offered to take us to his family vineyard just out of town to sample his wines.





This we did and after a very pleasant few hours we returned to Matilda with some of his produce. A very enterprising young man.
 


While in Chagny we foraged and found some sloes. A couple of kilos were picked and made into sloe gin and conserves.

Our next stop found us near Rully, another historic wine producing village.





The village is dominated by the Chateau Rully. We cycled around  but once again found the village not appealing  to individual tourists. We think more oriented to the groups, arriving by coach and given organised tours.





The Canal du Centre was originally known as the Canal du Charolais and herds of these beef cows seem to be everywhere. Marg finds them interesting as they are really chunky beef carriers right from birth. Peter finds their meat tough and rather tasteless.  Bring on Christmas and good Aussie steaks!



We were soon on the Saone River heading upstream. We must report to those that know, the Pirate Chick at Gergy has been carried away but the restaurant was operating and our meal was very good.



We arrived in Saint-Jean-de-Losne to find all moorings occupied so we asked the skipper of Walhall if we could raft up. He agreed and we noticed that his vessel is in absolutely pristine condition. Walhall is the first commercial barge we passed on our initial outing with Matilda. It seems a long time ago.



Tomorrow we head to Auxonne. Helen and Peter are joining us on the 2nd of September for a while. There will be more to tell so we will keep in touch.

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