Nancy in Summer

During our stay in Mons, Peter had further health issues and we returned quickly to Nancy with Matilda being returned by a friendly ex bargee we had previously met. Helen came with us and we showed her some of Nancy’s highlights. We stayed at a new apartment-hotel in this architecturally dramatic building. It is rapidly becoming known as the Cheese Grater, a nickname given it by our son Rohan.

Quite a dramatic shape but the likeness is obvious.

Our return to Nancy was in the height of summer and it was interesting as we had never seen Nancy at this time before. We found this bee in the Parc de la Pepiniere not far from where we moor.

We visited the Musee des Beaux Arts and among the collections we were  impressed by the display of wonderful artisan glass. There were pieces by Emile Galle, Rene Lalique, and the Daum brothers, amongst others.

Attractive glass is still produced by the Daum works here in Nancy. Their styles have changed over the years. These in heavy clear crystal started a trend in the ‘60s.

Helen was with us until late July and of course, a visit to the popular Marche aux Puces (Flea market) in the old town was essential.

A month after Helen left, Peter M and his friend John joined us. John, from London, was only with us for a few days but we managed a short cruise to Liverdun. Liverdun is a small village on the crest of a hill overlooking a loop in the Moselle River. We rode our bikes and climbed to the top of the town to take in the views.

Back to Nancy and one evening we visited Place Stanislas and watched the Son et Luminere  show called Rendez-vous that was projected on the buildings around the square.

We headed out again with Peter on to the Moselle, this time downstream and visited Pont- a- Mousson – an industrial town that is known throughout France for the production of cast steel manhole covers and the like. Every French street will have metal box covers with the familiar PAM logo. It appears to be quite an affluent town.

This grand chapel was the centre for a wedding and outdoor reception, attended by a large number of guests.

We saw this 30’s Peugeot 601 in town, probably part of the entourage.

This Deco memorial to the 1^st war is pockmarked with bullet holes from the second.

We continued on to Metz and visited the Saint Etienne Cathedral, famous for its stained glass windows by the famous artists Villon, Bissiere and Chagall. We wandered the streets, admiring the many small waterways crisscrossing the town.

These waterways were important for commercial access in the days gone by but now they add to the city’s claim to be a Garden City.

The Metz railway station was built between 1905 and 1908 and is now  registered as an Historic Monument. It was built on the instructions of Kaiser Wilhelm II at a time when the Germans occupied this part of France. Designed for military use it also had “royal apartments” for the Kaiser’s use and is known as the Station Palace. The heavy architectural style was deliberate as he wanted to “germanify” the area.

The building is interesting as it was built on swampy ground and was the first building in Europe to be built on reinforced concrete piles – some 3000 of them up to 17 metres long. A system just invented by a French engineer of the time.

As Matilda was too big to fit comfortably in the Metz Port de Plaisance we moored against an old commercial quay and ships like these were passing us all the time. Of the two above the loaded one (closest to Matilda) has just passed under a low bridge. The empty one on the far side is just about to go under it and has lowered his coach house so he will fit – and he just did!

We were soon back in Nancy and Peter M returned to Australia. Before he left we revisited the Rendez-vous  Son et Lumiere in Place Stanislas and he produced a brilliant rendition which he has posted on youtube. You will find it at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-csaqt9F6EY

We will soon have more visitors arriving and other things to do so we will keep in touch.

 

On to Mons

We departed Corbie, on the Somme and headed upstream towards Belgium. One thing that caught our eye was that the fallow fields beside the canal were covered with Flanders Poppies – fields of blood. So poignant after our visit.

We were soon back on the canal du Nord and observed the way the locals paint their bridges. One half at a time, wrap them so their workers are kept in good conditions. Certainly not Paul Hogan’s way to paint a bridge.

Actually the treatment started with a complete sandblast then spraying many layers of primers and paint. The wrapping was essential but it made navagation a little hazardous.

As we were now on a major canal sights like this were the norm. Here, barges loaded with heavy steel off cuts and scrap are off-loaded by these massive grabs, the scrap being used in a pipe mill close by.

We were soon moored at Mons. The city was only a short bus trip from our mooring and we wandered through the old centre of the city.

There had been something in the air as things were happening at the Hotel de Ville. Weddings seemed to be the order of the day.

A nice touch with this one, even though the bride was traditional, all the guests wore something aqua. Even the little 2cv.

Even this group – out on a buck’s afternoon were having fun. These fellows were collecting money to help the poor groom buy the ring. Hah! Booze more like. His hairy bits were covered in depilatory wax strips and his mates were inviting the public to donate – and rip a strip! Marg got her 2 euros worth.

Turning a corner, we thought we had found a Chinese pallet maker’s timber yard but realised that this was a sculpture almost filling a small local square.

We supposed that the woodpile had a degree in artistic merit - somewhere, but Peter missed it.

We have been saying for the past year that it is time to think about our future and we have finally taken the plunge and Matilda is on the market. We don’t think she will sell too quickly as the market is generally slow but we are being realistic with our price and expectations but will probably be here next season as well. If you would like to have a look, go to www.bargematilda.blogspot.com and see what we are selling.

There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.

The Somme

We entered the Canal de la Somme on Thursday June 23rd . This canal, for its most part is a canalised river as large stretches of it are the river itself with lock cuts and small stretches of canal. It was built to connect the St Quentin region to the English Channel and was completed in 1843. The management of this canal has recently passed from the VNF to the Somme Council.

We planned to travel from Peronne to Amiens as we are told the canal winds through some very pretty country and ground that saw some of the bloodiest battles of the First World War. Many Australian soldiers died in these battles and as it is the war’s centenary we thought it would be good to familiarise ourselves with the area.

The weather in this area has been woeful with too much rain and strong winds. There were many fields like this where ripe crops had been battered to the ground. The rain meant that the river was running strongly and there were times where Matilda assisted the Somme Council in keeping canal-side vegetation in trim. The canal is very twisty and flows through some very marshy country.

We visited a war museum in Peronne and this French St Chamond tank was outside.

The museum has some graphic displays and also a large collection of war relics found in nearby fields.

There was a walnut tree where we had moored so after our day of touring the town the girls, as true foragers, picked some for pickling.

A little further down the canal we came across this scene, they are clearing weed from the canal and we had to wait.

We found this very attractive eclusier’s cottage in the middle of marshland. Unfortunately it has been abandoned and vandalised. Could make someone a lovely weekender!

This grand building is the Mairie’s office in Corbie.  We are in the middle of the old Somme battlefields on what was the Western Front. Australian soldiers earned a name for themselves here in battles in 1916 and 1918. We took a taxi and wandered around a number of now famous sites.

We visited this site, the Australian Corps Memorial Park, dedicated to the Australian actions. It is slightly to the east of the village of le Hamel. It was here on the 23^rd  and 24^th April 1918 that the first tank to tank battle occurred between three British Mk4 and three German AV7 tanks.

The Germans in their push towards Amiens overran the town and the neighbouring Villers-Bretonneux before stopping to consolidate their position. The French Commander Foch ordered immediate counter attacks and the British commander of the Allied force, General Rawlinson, planned an attack for the next day, 25^th April. However, the commanders of the 13^th and 15^th Australian brigades which were to do the attacking, went against his plans and decided to attack that night. In a pincer movement they surrounded the town and surprised the Germans who started a retreat that did not stop until the war was lost.

Another little known fact is that on these fields on the 21^st April in this battle, the Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen was shot down by Australian ground fire.

It was this battle that cemented the Australian military name in Europe.

The Australian War memorial between Villers- Bretonneux and Corbie is on the crest of the hill that saw the heavy fighting of this battle.

The primary school in Villers- Bretonneux was donated by the children of  Victoria after the war and contains a small museum to the Australian servicemen.

A little closer to home, we followed up the exploits in the battles of Wally Ward, the grandfather of Helen and Marg (and the rest of the siblings), who was awarded a Military Medal for bravery and gallantry in an action of this battle. He came home.

His Citation reads:

To 2687 Sergeant Walter Edwin WARD 6^th Btn. A. I. F.

For conspicuous gallantry on 23^rd August 1918 at Herleville Wood near Foucaucourt when his platoon officer had been wounded, Sgt. WARD showed great courage and resource in leading his own men forward against heavy enemy machine gun fire. On one occasion when his men were temporarily held up, he went forward and captured the two hostile machine guns that were causing the casualties to his men. Later in the day, he with two men, under very heavy rifle fire, crept forward and succeeded in capturing three enemy machine guns and 20 prisoners. He proved himself a skilfull and fearless leader.

We found the wood where this action took place – there is nothing to show today.

Enough of the history lessons. We are back on board and heading for Belgium. There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.