On to Mons

We departed Corbie, on the Somme and headed upstream towards Belgium. One thing that caught our eye was that the fallow fields beside the canal were covered with Flanders Poppies – fields of blood. So poignant after our visit.

We were soon back on the canal du Nord and observed the way the locals paint their bridges. One half at a time, wrap them so their workers are kept in good conditions. Certainly not Paul Hogan’s way to paint a bridge.

Actually the treatment started with a complete sandblast then spraying many layers of primers and paint. The wrapping was essential but it made navagation a little hazardous.

As we were now on a major canal sights like this were the norm. Here, barges loaded with heavy steel off cuts and scrap are off-loaded by these massive grabs, the scrap being used in a pipe mill close by.

We were soon moored at Mons. The city was only a short bus trip from our mooring and we wandered through the old centre of the city.

There had been something in the air as things were happening at the Hotel de Ville. Weddings seemed to be the order of the day.

A nice touch with this one, even though the bride was traditional, all the guests wore something aqua. Even the little 2cv.

Even this group – out on a buck’s afternoon were having fun. These fellows were collecting money to help the poor groom buy the ring. Hah! Booze more like. His hairy bits were covered in depilatory wax strips and his mates were inviting the public to donate – and rip a strip! Marg got her 2 euros worth.

Turning a corner, we thought we had found a Chinese pallet maker’s timber yard but realised that this was a sculpture almost filling a small local square.

We supposed that the woodpile had a degree in artistic merit - somewhere, but Peter missed it.

We have been saying for the past year that it is time to think about our future and we have finally taken the plunge and Matilda is on the market. We don’t think she will sell too quickly as the market is generally slow but we are being realistic with our price and expectations but will probably be here next season as well. If you would like to have a look, go to www.bargematilda.blogspot.com and see what we are selling.

There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.

The Somme

We entered the Canal de la Somme on Thursday June 23rd . This canal, for its most part is a canalised river as large stretches of it are the river itself with lock cuts and small stretches of canal. It was built to connect the St Quentin region to the English Channel and was completed in 1843. The management of this canal has recently passed from the VNF to the Somme Council.

We planned to travel from Peronne to Amiens as we are told the canal winds through some very pretty country and ground that saw some of the bloodiest battles of the First World War. Many Australian soldiers died in these battles and as it is the war’s centenary we thought it would be good to familiarise ourselves with the area.

The weather in this area has been woeful with too much rain and strong winds. There were many fields like this where ripe crops had been battered to the ground. The rain meant that the river was running strongly and there were times where Matilda assisted the Somme Council in keeping canal-side vegetation in trim. The canal is very twisty and flows through some very marshy country.

We visited a war museum in Peronne and this French St Chamond tank was outside.

The museum has some graphic displays and also a large collection of war relics found in nearby fields.

There was a walnut tree where we had moored so after our day of touring the town the girls, as true foragers, picked some for pickling.

A little further down the canal we came across this scene, they are clearing weed from the canal and we had to wait.

We found this very attractive eclusier’s cottage in the middle of marshland. Unfortunately it has been abandoned and vandalised. Could make someone a lovely weekender!

This grand building is the Mairie’s office in Corbie.  We are in the middle of the old Somme battlefields on what was the Western Front. Australian soldiers earned a name for themselves here in battles in 1916 and 1918. We took a taxi and wandered around a number of now famous sites.

We visited this site, the Australian Corps Memorial Park, dedicated to the Australian actions. It is slightly to the east of the village of le Hamel. It was here on the 23^rd  and 24^th April 1918 that the first tank to tank battle occurred between three British Mk4 and three German AV7 tanks.

The Germans in their push towards Amiens overran the town and the neighbouring Villers-Bretonneux before stopping to consolidate their position. The French Commander Foch ordered immediate counter attacks and the British commander of the Allied force, General Rawlinson, planned an attack for the next day, 25^th April. However, the commanders of the 13^th and 15^th Australian brigades which were to do the attacking, went against his plans and decided to attack that night. In a pincer movement they surrounded the town and surprised the Germans who started a retreat that did not stop until the war was lost.

Another little known fact is that on these fields on the 21^st April in this battle, the Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen was shot down by Australian ground fire.

It was this battle that cemented the Australian military name in Europe.

The Australian War memorial between Villers- Bretonneux and Corbie is on the crest of the hill that saw the heavy fighting of this battle.

The primary school in Villers- Bretonneux was donated by the children of  Victoria after the war and contains a small museum to the Australian servicemen.

A little closer to home, we followed up the exploits in the battles of Wally Ward, the grandfather of Helen and Marg (and the rest of the siblings), who was awarded a Military Medal for bravery and gallantry in an action of this battle. He came home.

His Citation reads:

To 2687 Sergeant Walter Edwin WARD 6^th Btn. A. I. F.

For conspicuous gallantry on 23^rd August 1918 at Herleville Wood near Foucaucourt when his platoon officer had been wounded, Sgt. WARD showed great courage and resource in leading his own men forward against heavy enemy machine gun fire. On one occasion when his men were temporarily held up, he went forward and captured the two hostile machine guns that were causing the casualties to his men. Later in the day, he with two men, under very heavy rifle fire, crept forward and succeeded in capturing three enemy machine guns and 20 prisoners. He proved himself a skilfull and fearless leader.

We found the wood where this action took place – there is nothing to show today.

Enough of the history lessons. We are back on board and heading for Belgium. There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.

Heading North.

We are waiting for Helen and Lynda to join us, They have been on a tour in Spain and Southern France. We understand they have had a hectic time and it appears that they may be joining us just to rest. Helen is becoming a seasoned traveller but this is Lynda’s first trip out of Australia for some time. Helen will be a good guide.

With a day or so to wait for them we decided to take in a little of Paris. We will check the river levels, stock the boat and generally prepare for the next episode in our travels.

The gardens above are the Jardin des Tuileries, only a stone’s throw from the hotel that the girls will stay in. Beautifully manicured lawns but don’t walk on them!

Marg took a train in on Saturday morning and met them and accompanied them to the boat. Next morning, Sunday June 12, as the Seine had returned to almost normal flow and level we departed our mooring downstream. The Seine still had a mind of its own and when entering our first lock, Matilda was caught in a heavy cross current and hit a retaining wall.

Doesn’t look much but the impact was frightening and we were all a bit shaken. Fortunately no major problems and after putting things back in place in the boat we returned to normal. The boat is safe but the gunnel and railing will have to be repaired.

We continued on into the Oise river, going upstream, against the current this time. Later, Peter managed a quick patch job on the railing to relieve access on that side.

We were now in big boat country and shared one ecluse on the Oise with these boats.

The girls seemed to appreciate our now quiet pace, well comforted with bubbles and Marg’s fine dining.

Lynda left us at Compiegne, travelling by train back to Paris, then flying home to Australia. We enjoyed her company and she seemed to appreciate our lifestyle.

Compiegne has been a famous town in French history. Since the 6^th century it is known to have had a castle occupied by royalty of the time. The present castle has been the choice of a summer Palace of many of the French kings and continuously modified to suit their use. Napoleon Bonaparte and Napoleon III also lived in it. It is now primarily a museum restored in parts to highlight its original use.

We were off again, heading now further up the Oise, and into the Canal de la Somme. We are heading to Amiens and into the historic battlefields of the First World War.

There will be more to tell, so we will keep in touch.